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Sunday, October 9, 2011

I Love Me Some Turkish Delight

It has been quite a while since I've posted and so much has happened. During the last weekend of September, my best friend, Shelby, visited and w had the best time. I couldn't wait to see her and show her around my new home. Seeing her in the airport was unreal and we both couldn't stop saying, "Wow, we're in Europe together." On Friday we had dinner with my closest friends from DIS and went out to several clubs and bars after. Saturday we slept in and spent the rest of the day shopping, walking around Copenhagen, getting danishes and coffee, and having a nice leisurely dinner (followed by another night of bar and club hopping). I absolutely can't wait to visit her in Madrid in November.

Now, for the information that everyone has been waiting for: Turkey was beyond incredible. I learned so much on the trip and became even closer with people in my program. We arrived in Istanbul on Saturday night and I was blown away by how crowded and alive the city was. Istanbul has about 17 million people, so all of us were overwhelmed at first. We had a tour guide all week named Korai, who was the sweetest and funniest guy I've ever met. He was never afraid to joke with us and make fun of us yet still knew when to be serious so we would really learn and take in the sites around us. On Sunday we visited the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. The Hagia Sophia was the most incredible site I've ever seen. There is so much history behind it and the inside was beyond breathtaking. It was impossible not to notice a different architecture and art every where we looked. There was so much intricacy and detail in every part of the mosque. The Blue Mosque wasn't quite as extravagant as I thought it would be, but it was still amazing as well. That afternoon we visited the Topkaki Palace and walked around the city. The weather all week was perfect. It was hot but not to the point where it was unbearable and there was always a nice breeze. On Monday night we had dinner on the rooftop of a hotel in Istanbul overlooking the city, in particular the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. I had to take a few minutes by myself to just take in the beauty of what I was seeing. Hearing the call to prayer late at night was also something that was pretty special and unforgettable.


On Monday morning we visited Mavi Karem, the Greek Patriarchy, and the neighborhood around it. Mavi Kalem is an NGO and works to help children and women against violence. The "office" was small and it was sad to see that the NGO did not have the necessary resources to help individuals. The Greek Orthodox Church was small but beautiful. That afternoon we had time on our own and my friends and I went to the Spice Market and Grand Bazaar. I was surrounded by every type of antique, necklace, ring, rug, lantern, and scarf you could imagine. I got to practice my bargaining skills and did pretty well (I got a gold elephant that was originally 35 lira for 8). At the Bazaar I picked up a scarf, jewelry, evil eye bracelet, and some Turkish delight (the dessert that Turkey is known for). That night we got to see a Whirling Dervish performance, which is a religious and sacred dance that is practiced in Turkey. It was amazing to see how much focus the men put into their dance and I was blown away by their concentration.


Tuesday morning we heard a lecture by Nora Fischer Onar, who works at Behcesehir University and went to college in the States. She spoke to us about minority groups in Turkey and it was an interesting and informative lecture. Unfortunately, when asked a question about women's rights in Turkey, she didn't go into much detail, which a lot of us found to be disappointing since we were subjected to rude comments and uncomfortable remarks by Turkish men on the streets. That was probably the most uncomfortable thing about Turkey: some men have no shame in yelling whatever they want at women. I've learned not to take for granted the respect I receive from people in Copenhagen and the States. That afternoon my friend Katherine and I visited the Basilica Cistern, which was underground and is the largest surviving cistern in Istanbul. It was an amazing experience to go there and see the history of Istanbul. Afterwards we walked around and both purchased gorgeous tapestries at a small shop we found. We then went to the Islamic Arts Museum. After a much deserved nap, a few of us went to a nice Turkish restaurant on the main pedestrian street, Istiklal and then went to a bar where live Turkish music played. We ended up going with many other DIS students and all of us had a great time just taking in the life and culture of Istanbul.

Wednesday was a long day. My group, Immigrants and IDPs, met with an organization early in the morning that takes care of refugees and their housing, food, and security needs. The woman who spoke to us was American and moved to Turkey just a few years before. What we were told was sad and frustrating. Most of the immigrants were unable to gain admission to countries by the UN and were forced back to their countries for other reasons. The stories we were told were appalling and it made me think about how much we take for granted in the States and how many individuals, whether in Turkey or elsewhere, can't even receive proper housing. It was easy to tell that the woman speaking to us felt just as terrible. We then attended a lecture as a large group and had an amazing lunch overlooking the ocean and all of Istanbul. That afternoon we got to meet and talk with Turkish students about the government, Turkey's accession into the EU, and what it was like to be a university student in Istanbul. The girl I talked to was sweet, honest, and everything she said was eye-opening. She told me how she truly felt about the Turkish government and how she often feared arrest based on her thoughts. I'll refrain from saying her name and her views on the government out of respect, however, it made me realize how important it is never to for granted the religious and political freedoms we have in the U.S. (and even Denmark). Being able to talk to Turkish students about religion, politics, classes, music, movies, and even partying was an incredible experience. I learned that all of us are truly the same regardless of political views or religion, which is an aspect of life that many individuals often fail to recognize. That night we had a great dinner with the Turkish students and went out with them afterwards. It was so amazing to see how fun and thrilled they were to be interacting with American students. It was truly a day I'll never forget.

Thursday was our last day and was devoted to a lecture at another university and free time in the afternoon. We went from the European side of Turkey to the Asian side within an hour. After the tour, we did some shopping and went to the Turkish baths (look it up, it's pretty unique). Since it was our last night we had a final group dinner at a restaurant on the main walking street. All of us felt even more like a family and couldn't wait to go out together after dinner. We ended up at a bar/club that played great dance music and our professors danced (and drank) with us until about 3 AM. Being able to reflect on the amazing week we just had as a group was unforgettable.

Istanbul was a life-changing experience and was the best academic trip I've ever been on. I learned so much about politics, religion, people, unique cultures, and it changed my view of the world as a whole. I've often contemplated why religion gets in the way of so many issues between individuals and groups. As the product of a Christian mother and Jewish father,  I've seen firsthand how religion can get in the way of people's views and opinions of others. Yet if I learned one thing from this trip, it is that no religion or belief system is greater than the other. From meeting the Turkish students and other Turks, whether they were Christian or Muslim, I came to realize that, as cliche as it sounds, we're all the same. Christianity does not triumph Judaism and Islam is no better than Hinduism.

Additionally, I learned never to take respect and my rights of free speech for granted. As mentioned before, many of the girls, myself included, were uncomfortable in Istanbul because of the numerous negative comments we received from men on the streets. It's obvious that cultures and cities differ, however, I have never been subjected to that level of disrespect in any other country. To know that many women go through that every day made me realize how important it is to be respectful to any and every human being, regardless of gender or ethnicity and that respect should always be strictly enforced. When I got to really think about it, I wish that one of the lecturers had discussed women's rights in Turkey more just because of that aspect of Turkish life. In regards to the free speech part, I will never forget the conversation I had with the Turkish students I met. Some were afraid to express their views while others simply said nothing. To not be able to speak freely on issues related to politics and religion is something that still baffles me. From now on I know I'll always think about those students and the fears they face regarding their personal views.

Our good family friend, John, always told me, "You have to be comfortable with being uncomfortable." I had to constantly repeat that phrase to myself throughout the entire trip. In fact, that's what made the trip so unforgettable.  I was put completely out of my comfort zone and forced to think about some incredibly significant issues and see life from a different perspective. While I enjoyed my time in Turkey, I was thrilled to be back in Copenhagen. Never have I been so excited to be surrounded by hundreds of bikes or get on the 6A bus back to the apartment I love. I gave my roommate a huge hug when I saw her and spent all of my first day back just walking by myself throughout the city and being so happy to be "home." I've truly realized how at home I feel in Copenhagen and it's an amazing and beautiful feeling.

I can't wait to see what the rest of the semester brings. My trip to Turkey was such a significant part of my experience abroad and changed my perspective on many things. Who knows what the next two months hold but I know they will continue to change me as an individual and give me more and more insight on how huge this world really is.

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